A Dosa Lesson From a Professional

I hadn’t even considered making the dosa I’d sampled at Pondicheri, a restaurant in New York City. The crisp lentil and rice crepe, thin as newsprint but far more delicious, was stuffed with a pumpkinseed chutney and sautéed greens. It was a little sweet from coconut, fragrant with curry leaves and mustard seeds, and gently…

Sometimes it’s a relief to eat a dish that makes no pretense of beauty, that settles for simply being delicious. At My Cuban Spot, a takeout window with a couple of sidewalk tables in Gowanus, Brooklyn, three huevos fritos (fried eggs) come slapped over rice. The yolks quiver; the whites are riddled with bubbles; the…

A Cake You Can Take With You Anywhere

Over the years, and almost without meaning to, I have become an obsessive collector — not of objects but of recipes. I have accumulated boxes’ and files’ worth. I search for them casually in print and online, and relentlessly, determinedly and often shamelessly when I’m out, whether close to home or traveling. I eavesdrop as…

The Novel Taste of Old Food

IN FOOD, AS IN LIFE, we prize what is young and unsullied by time: tiny wild blueberries that drop off the bush with the slightest tug; a sea urchin pried from a rock and gulped down on the beach; an egg still warm from the nest. We clamor for restaurants where the vegetables on the…



HYDE PARK, N.Y. — Check out the tray liners at Martina, Danny Meyer’s new pizzeria in the East Village, which were designed as branded Instagram bait. Each has what the executive chef, Nick Anderer, calls “a frenetic doodle” of contemporary Roman slang phrases, images of wineglasses and pizza, and at the bottom left, the restaurant’s…

Doughnuts and especially croissants are what the pastry chef Ry Stephen is baking at Supermoon Bakehouse, his first venture after leaving Mr. Holmes Bakehouse in San Francisco. “It’s what we love doing,” he said in the big open kitchen of his new Lower East Side bakery. The simple storefront has a wall of glass dividing…

At Tales of the Cocktail, the Founder Steps Down

The founder of Tales of the Cocktail, the New Orleans convention that has become a must-attend annual town hall for the drinks business, announced Saturday that she would step down, months after a controversial costumed ride in a Mardi Gras parade. “Our goal has always been to create something lasting that can benefit the industry…

Oktoberfest, All the Time

The Heidelberg seems out of step with the high-rise aesthetic of the Upper East Side. Yet for a few hours this Saturday, the 81-year-old German restaurant, one of the last relics of German Town, now known as Yorkville, will be the star of the neighborhood, as its workers dish out sauerkraut and sausages for the…

Will the Trump Era Transform the School Lunch?

ATLANTA — On a sweltering morning in July, Sonny Perdue, the newly minted secretary of agriculture, strode across the stage of a convention hall here packed with 7,000 members of the School Nutrition Association, who had gathered for their annual conference. After reminiscing about the cinnamon rolls baked by the lunchroom ladies of his youth,…

What to Cook This Week

Sam Sifton emails readers of Cooking five days a week to talk about food and suggest recipes. That email also appears here. To receive it in your inbox, register here. Download the NYT Cooking app here. Good morning. I think you’re going to want to build dinner tonight around Samin Nosrat’s new recipe for herb-stuffed…

Even as a kid, he didn’t eat like one. For sure, at 5 or 6 he’d kick his older brother, Tracy, under the table whenever his parents took the family to restaurants, but mostly he was paying attention, learning about the food of a time in Manhattan when the top restaurants served German, Swiss or…

Alsatian Wines Strike a Balance of Dry and Sweet

EPFIG, France — The Muenchberg vineyard outside this small town is considered one of the best in Alsace. It’s among several dozen in the region that have earned the status of grand cru, vineyards from which the wines have the potential to transcend the qualities of the grapes to express the character of the place….